A) "Powder coating is an advanced method of applying a decorative and protective finish to a wide range of materials and products that are used by both industries and consumers." Source: http://www.powdercoating.org/benefits/
Powder is quickly replacing liquid paints for a wide variety of finishes. It is cleaner and more "green" than traditional paints because, to be applied, it does not require complex man made chemicals (Volitle Organic Compounds - VOC) that evaporate in to the atmosphere. The powder contains all of the chemistry, which stays on the coated product.
A)Durability, cost, and the ability to choose the perfect finish.
Powder coatings are in many instances stronger and more wear resistant than paint. Properly powder coated, the appearance and colors in the finish will last much longer against corrosion, wear, and UV sunlight.
Powder is cheaper to apply and easier to maintain than most paint. By the time you add up the number of hours needed to prep a product for paint and the amount of time it takes to paint it, including drying times between coats, you would be better off powder coating. Not to mention, the annual ritual of getting out the paints and sandpaper to give it a "touch-up"... People are often surprised at how affordable powder coating really is!
Powders also come in such a broad range of finishes and textures that you could not come close to copying them with traditional paint products.
A) The criteria are:
The most common items are, of course, metals. Mild steel, stainless steel, aluminum, brass, etc. but we've done some odd things like wood and fiberglass at lower temperatures. The technology is not perfected, and therefore not reliable, for coating non metallic objects. And remember, we can't powder coat something that has rubber or plastic pieces mounted to it.
A) Price is affected mainly by size and shape (Sometimes weight is considered if it requires more manpower to move).
The second thing to consider is the type of finish. Black is going to be cheaper than Sparkle Green Apple.
Quantity is the other major factor in pricing a powder coating job. Generally a minimum of about $150 applies, but there are some exceptions. Let's say you bring a small, simple item (like a bracket of some kind) and you want it coated in a stock color that we are already coating for another job. In order to give you the best price possible, we will try to put with that rack and only charge you for the coating on just your part (at the pricing estimates below). If you need the part quickly or in a unique color, we will have to charge for a "half-rack", which is our $150 minimum.
To help with estimating the cost, we use a sort of "20 questions" approach ("Is it bigger than a bread-box?").
If it will fit in a shoe box - about $10-$30 each item (hinges, light fixtures, cabinet hardware)
If it will fit in a foot locker - about $30-$60 each item (wheels, sinks, pot racks)
If it will fit in a kiddie pool - about $80-$120 each item (roof rack, bicycle/ motorcycle frames, chairs)
Entire automotive frames, tables and other large items can go from $175 up to $600 (higher for specialty finishes, etc.)
Extras, like primers and clear top coats generally add about 30 - 50% to a job, and are worth it if you want an extra layer of protection.
We have a 16' deep oven, so don't hesitate with your big jobs.
A) Yes. Please visit our contact page so we can talk with you about powder coating your time sensitive projects.
A)We stock matte clear and gloss clear at our shop, both of which would work well on aluminum. Today's powders are designed to last around 5-10 years depending on outside conditions.
You shouldn't see chipping if the tire place is doing what they should.
A) No. One reason to strip or sandblast a previously coated piece is if the original finish isn't adhering to the item. If it's not peeling off, you can generally coat over it.
A) Yes. Regular masking tape doesn't work because of the heat but we use high temperature tape that is designed for powder coating. We do it all the time for parts with threads, or machined surfaces. We also use masking tape when we do two tone finishes.
A)As a matter of background, some metals that have been formed through processes, like casting, forging, or sintering can have a porous composition. That means there are microscopic cavities throughout the piece that like to absorb oils and gasses (air). Both the oils and air can cause problems if they are not dealt with. Since we're talking about putting these pieces of metal in a 400 degree oven for 30 min, it's obvious that as they heat up along with the air inside things will start to happen. The trapped expanding air will find it's way to the surface of what you are coating. As it's "out-gassing," the air will push up through the coating while it's in a gel state and when it comes out the finished coat can have pin holes.
In our cleaning steps, we use degreasers, acids, and sealers, in addition to high pressure, high temperature wands that spray the solutions at 180F. That takes care of the oils and dirt. Let's just say it get's the metal CLEAN, even down in the pores. They won't need a second wash.
For the out-gassing, we usually pre heat the parts. The idea is to heat the items to a temp HIGHER than what the cure temp is before we coat them. That way, while we apply the powder and send them in to cure, they are actually cooling from around 425F to 390F, which will have the effect of pulling the coating in to the parts rather than have the gasses pushing out.
For parts that are too big or too difficult to preheat, we use industry standard "out-gassing forgiving" powders. They come in both primers and top coats and are a good alternative to this issue. You can see some here about half way down the page.
A) We love this question! We have an awesome product called DuJel. Dubois Chemicals has developed this product that is essentially an acid based cleaner, but in a gel form. The gel acts to hold the cleaner on the metal while it goes to work. We will have NO problem removing that rust in a matter of minutes. Be sure to watch the video at the bottom of the DuJel page.
A) Off the Orem Center Street exit.
165 North 1330 West in suite D-1
Orem, UT 84057
Phone: 801-425-2440
